01
Placket spine
The aso-oke rib is fused between two layers of poplin and topstitched at 2 mm, so the placket carries the shirt's structure rather than a fusible interlining. Placket depth is one loom strip, never a tailoring standard.
Atlas Weave · Shirting
Kaduna Stand Shirt
Notch-free stand collar neckline
Aso-oke strip weaving reinterpreted as the shirt's spine: the narrow loom width sets the placket depth, so the proportion is African even though nothing patterned is visible.
Indigo shows only when the cuff is turned.
World cloth
- Italy — Compact poplin
- Japan — Selvedge indigo facing
- Nigeria — Hand-loomed aso-oke rib, used as a structural placket core
Cut in Porto, placket rib hand-loomed in Kaduna.
Tailoring notes
How it is built.
02
One-piece back yoke
Cut on a single grain line with no centre seam, which keeps the shoulder flat under a blazer and removes the usual pull across the blade.
03
Bias cuff
Cut at 45° so the cuff follows the wrist and reveals the selvedge indigo facing only when turned.
Construction: Concealed button stand · One-piece back yoke · Cuff cut on the bias
Care
Keep it alive.
- Cold hand wash or 30°C delicate; the indigo facing will bleed in its first two washes — wash alone.
- Rest the garment 24 hours between wears; heritage cloth recovers its own shape.
- Spot clean with cold water and a white cloth — never a coloured cloth on resist-dyed panels.
- Store on a broad wooden hanger; folded storage flattens loom-strip structure.
- Press the placket from the reverse only; direct heat glazes the rib.
The pair
Worn together.
Pairs with the Kaduna Column Dress — same placket depth, run vertically to the hem.
Dress to express.
Read the fabric provenance